Oliver Burkeman:
"[Karen Rinaldi] dedicates every spare moment she can to [surfing], and even wiped out her savings on a plot of land in Costa Rica for better access to the sea. Yet she readily admits that she remains an appaling surfer to this day. (It took her five years of attempting to catch a wave before she first managed to do so.) But 'in the process of attaining a few moments of bliss', Rinaldi explains, 'I experience something else: patience and humility, but also freedom. Freedom to pursue the futile. And the freedom to suck without caring is revelatory.' "
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